Food and Wine
November 1995
Newcomers: The ones to try
by Janet Bukovinsky-Teacher

Striped Bass

The term Philadelphia fish house took on a glamorous image last year when restaurateurs Neil stein and Joe Wolf opened this all-seafood restaurant in a high-profile spot along Rittenhouse Row. Chef Alison Barshak, who cooked at Apropos, a lauded late-Eighties brasserie, creates big flavors. Suppliers from all over the world help ensure that she and her staff work with the ocean's freshest.

Don't Miss: Oysters, at the raw bar, where the menu changes nightly. To start, classic tuna tartare with an herb slad in a preserved-lemon vinaigrette. For the main course, wild striped bass with a potato-and-corn hash and a sauce created with huitlacoche (corn fungus that tastes like morels and corn) if it's available.
The Look: Sky-high ceilings, stenciled designs and woodeen screens decorate this airy room that was once home to a brokergage firm.

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