Eating Around / Pistachio Nuts
By Katy McLaughlin
22 April 2004
The Wall Street Journal
(Copyright (c) 2004, Dow Jones & Company, Inc.)
The pistachio nut has gone through an extreme makeover, and a
successful one, judging from the fact that domestic consumption jumped 11% last
year.
The nut used to be mostly imported from Iran, dyed red, and sold as
vending-machine fare and ice cream flavoring. Then, when an embargo on
Iranian products took effect in 1986, production took off in
California -- and pistachios went upscale. Today, you're more likely to encounter
pistachio-encrusted baby lamb in a restaurant than dyed nuts in a candy
machine (partly because few producers bother with the dye anymore).
RESTAURANT: Bistro M, Glen Head, N.Y.
ON THE MENU AS: Pistachio Crusted Halibut
PREPARATION: Blanched and toasted pistachios are ground with butter and
breadcrumbs, then spread thin, frozen and baked over fish. Served with
polenta, morels, fava beans and asparagus.
PRICE: $27
RESTAURANT: Alison at Blue Bell, Blue Bell, Penn.
ON THE MENU AS: Baby Greens with Warm Pistachio Crusted Goat Cheese
PREPARATION: Goat cheese balls are dipped in flour and egg, then
coated with pistachios, Japanese bread crumbs, and oil and baked. Served on salad
with pomegranate-fig vinaigrette.
PRICE: $7.50
RESTAURANT: The 510 Restaurant, Minneapolis
ON THE MENU AS: Salad of Grapefuit, Warm Pistachio Encrusted Goat Cheese
PREPARATION: Soft goat cheese patties are coated with a pistachio nut
and breadcrumb mixture and baked. Served on greens, with dried cranberries
and champagne vinaigrette.
PRICE: $7.50
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